Panettone

As the test kitchen assistant, I test a lot of recipes. Most are fun little tune-ups: an ingredient swap there, a timing change or a seasoning tweak. And then there are the heavyweights — the ones that need multiple adjustments and must be broken down to their bare bones again. Our panettone recipe sat firmly in that last camp. Before this saga began, I’ll be honest: my panettone knowledge was mostly limited to admiring the pretty boxes in Italian delis. I was more likely to pick up a pandoro.

My first test? Let’s just say it was closer to a dense fruitcake than the light and feathery dome of Christmas joy I had envisioned. A humbling moment. We headed back to the drawing board, not once, but six times in total.

What followed was what I now affectionately call Panettone-Gate: six versions, many Teams messages, a few muttered apologies to my stand mixer and a whole lot of learning. But we got there. And the final version? She’s a beauty: fragrant, festive and genuinely doable at home.

Here’s what I learnt along the way:

1. A poolish (starter dough) is a great starting point.

Traditional panettone uses a biga — a stiff pre-ferment that gives that signature lift and flavour. I wasn’t familiar with it, so I played within pre-ferments I was more familiar with. Biga will come in version seven.

Our solution was a looser pre-dough (a poolish-ish situation) that gives the dough some of that cherished lightness without demanding the monk-like calm I believe is required for a full biga.

2. Butter is both a blessing and a burden

Panettone is enriched. Deeply enriched. And while butter gives the dough that silky, shreddable texture, too much turns the dough into a slump. Finding the sweet spot and the right incorporation method for a home cook took a few rounds — and brought me close to tears.

3. Candied citron + essential oil = magic

The right flavouring is the secret handshake of proper panettone. I didn’t even know what citron was until Lulu introduced me to it. It really transformed the flavour. A mix of candied orange and lemon is great but nowhere near as aromatic. The essential oil, meanwhile, adds that signature perfumed warmth.

4. The flipping debate is… ongoing

Some bakers swear by hanging panettone upside-down like festive bats to prevent collapse. I didn’t see a dramatic difference using this method, but I’m open to being swayed by future evidence (or very passionate panettone people). Verdict: if your panettone is fully baked, it shouldn’t crater in the centre. But if you enjoy the drama, feel free to continue the ritual. You’ll need a hanging skewer or two long skinny skewers.